• 专利附录
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    • 专利摘要:
    The subject of the invention is a keratinous fiber oxidation-color-change agent containing, relative to its total weight, one or more "per" compounds chosen from the group comprising sodium percarbonate and potassium percarbonate. sodium perborate and potassium perborate in a total amount of from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, and one or more persulfates selected from the group consisting of ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate. sodium in a total amount of 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and less than 10.0% by weight of water.
    公开号:FR3076454A1
    申请号:FR1872129
    申请日:2018-11-30
    公开日:2019-07-12
    发明作者:Udo Erkens；Torsten Lechner
    申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Description
    Title of the invention: Blonde coloring agent with percarbonates or perborates and persulfates The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and relates to agents for color change by oxidation of keratin fibers, containing percarbonates or perborates, persulfates and water in ranges of predetermined amounts respectively. Furthermore, the present invention relates to methods of color change by oxidation of keratin fibers, in which the above-mentioned agents are used.
    The color change by oxidation, in particular the fact of coloring in blonde or lightening the color of her hair, has always been the wish of many consumers, since blonde hair is appreciated because it is considered attractive and fashionable. To this end, different blond coloring agents are offered on the market, these having different levels of result. The oxidizing agents contained in these products are able to lighten the hair fibers by the destruction by oxidation of the melanin present in the hair and / or with artificial dyes. For a moderate "blond" effect, the use of hydrogen peroxide - possibly with ammonia or other alkalinizing agents - as the sole oxidizing agent may suffice; to obtain a more powerful "blond" effect, a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxo salts, in particular persulfate salts, is generally used.
    These peroxo salts are usually used in powder form, mixed with a preparation of hydrogen peroxide shortly before use. Using a combination of hydrogen peroxide and persulfates has several disadvantages. Indeed, the application of hydrogen peroxide on the scalp can cause irritation. Likewise, at least two separately packaged components, the persulfate powder and the hydrogen peroxide solution, must be mixed to prepare the ready-to-use blonde coloring agent. Users are attaching increasing importance to the ecological aspects of a product, and favor the most sustainable consumption possible. One of the objectives of the present invention is also to save on packaging materials. The products used in as concentrated a form as possible, consisting of a single component and optimally having to be mixed only with water to obtain the application mixture, offer a decisive advantage in terms of savings on packaging materials.
    In addition, the lightening of the hair as known in the prior art also involves the deterioration of the hair, since oxidation affects not only the hair dyes, but also the other structural hair constituents. Depending on the degree of damage, the hair may be rough, brittle and difficult to comb, or even exhibit reduced strength and resistance to tearing, as well as have split ends; this can go as far as breaking the hair. In general, the longer the duration of exposure and the greater the amount of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate used, the greater the damage to the keratin fiber. As always, discovering new blonde coloring agents that cause less hair damage is a real challenge.
    [0005] Consequently, one of the objects of the present invention is to provide agents for color change by oxidation which make it possible to dye the keratin fibers in blonde without using solutions based on hydrogen peroxide. These agents must consist of a single component and the preparation of the ready-to-use agent must be possible by mixing with water. In addition, these agents must cause the least possible damage to the hair, while having the greatest lightening power possible.
    The state of the art comprises blond coloring agents made up of a powder component and which form the ready-to-use agent when they are mixed with water, for example. after document WO 94/16672 A1. In this document, percarbonates (in particular sodium percarbonate) are used as a solid source of hydrogen peroxide and are used in a mixture with persulfates to color the hair blond.
    Document WO 94/16672 A1 teaches that the substances releasing hydrogen peroxide (that is to say in particular percarbonates) must be used in very high quantities, ranging from 15 to 23% by weight ( relative to the agent's total weight). By reworking the teachings of WO 94/16672 A1, it has however been found that these high amounts of percarbonates cause very serious damage to the hair, which is no longer acceptable to the user. Means have therefore been sought to minimize the damage caused to the hair by these agents, without however reducing their coloring power in blond.
    It has been found that damage to the hair can be reduced if the agents contain smaller amounts of percarbonates or perborates. What was surprising in this reduction was that - provided that the optimal content of percarbonates (or perborates) was chosen and that the percarbonates (or perborates) were used in determined proportions compared to the persulfates - this reduction in hair damage was possible while preserving the coloring performance in blond.
    The present invention first relates to a color changing agent by oxidation of keratin fibers, containing - relative to its total weight - (A) one or more compounds "per" selected from the group comprising per sodium carbonate, potassium percarbonate, sodium perborate and potassium perborate in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, and (b) one or more persulfates selected from the group comprising ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount ranging from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and [0012] (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water.
    Agent for color change by oxidation of keratin fibers [0014] The agents according to the invention are used for color change by oxidation of keratin fibers. By the expression “color change by oxidation” used according to the invention, is meant the blond coloring agents as well as the lightening agents for keratin fibers, which contain the oxidizing agents of groups (a) and (b) (percarbonates / perborates and persulfates). If it is a blonde color or pure lightening, the agents do not contain any other colorant. However, it may also be desirable to shade the keratin fibers in addition to blonde coloring / lightening. To do this, the agents according to the invention may also contain additional coloring components such as direct-acting dyes and / or dye precursors by oxidation. However, the preferred purpose of the agents is blonde coloring or lightening; therefore, the agents preferably do not contain any dye, or only in small amounts suitable for a slight shade.
    By "keratin fibers" is meant wool, furs, feathers and in particular human hair. In principle, the dyes according to the invention can also be used for dyeing other natural fibers, for example cotton, jute, sisal, linen or silk, as well as modified natural fibers such as regenerated cellulose, nitro-, alkyl-, hydroxyalkyl- or acetylcellulose.
    Percarbonates and perborates The agents according to the invention contain - relative to their total weight, as the first essential component to the invention (a) - one or more compounds "per" of the group consisting of percarbonate sodium, potassium percarbonate, sodium perborate and potassium perborate in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sodium percarbonate" means the adduct (or complex) from sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide whose composition is 2 Na2CO3 x 3 H2O2 . Sodium percarbonate forms a white, water-soluble powder which, in contact with water, decomposes formally to sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. The sodium percarbonate according to the invention (2 Na2CO3 x 3 H2O2) has a molar mass of 314.02 g / mol and is identified by the CAS number 15630-89-4.
    Sodium percarbonate is sold (under different degrees of purity) by various suppliers. For example, the company Evonik Degussa markets a sodium percarbonate having a purity of 98.8% by weight. All the above quantities refer to 100% by weight sodium percarbonate. If sodium percarbonate with a lower purity level is used, the amounts to be used should be converted accordingly.
    Analogously, by "potassium percarbonate" means in the sense of the present invention the adduct (or complex) from potassium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide whose composition is 2 K2CO3 x 3 H2O2.
    Alternatively, sodium perborate is also called sodium peroxyborate.
    Within the meaning of the invention, sodium perborate is commercially available sodium peroxyborate tetrahydrate (sodium perborate tetrahydrate), the total formula of which is (NaBO3 · 4 H2O). In the literature, one can also find the total formula NaBO2 · H2O2 · 3 H2O. In the solid state, there are annular peroxyborates, the formula of which is Na2B2 (O2) 2 (OH) 4 · 6 H2O. Sodium perborate tetrahydrate is identified by the CAS number 10486-00-7 and is for example marketed by the company Sigma Aldrich.
    The use of sodium percarbonate has been found to be particularly suitable for solving the problem of the object according to the invention.
    We particularly prefer a color change agent by oxidation of keratin fibers, containing - relative to its total weight - (a) 0.5 to 14.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate and [ (B) one or more persulphates selected from the group comprising ammonium persulphate, potassium persulphate and sodium persulphate in a total amount ranging from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and [0026] (c) less than 10% by weight of water.
    The agents according to the invention contain percarbonates and perborates in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight.
    The work leading to the present invention has shown that a further increase in the levels of percarbonate and perborate, beyond 14.0% by weight, increases the damage caused to the hair, but does not cause a further improvement in lightening. In this context, it has proved particularly preferable to use in the agents according to the invention one or more percarbonates in a total amount ranging from 1.5 to 13.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 12 0.0% by weight, more preferably 4.5-11.0% by weight and most preferably 6.0-10.0% by weight. The combination of the best lightening performance and relatively least damage to the hair could be obtained when the agents contained the percarbonates (in particular sodium percarbonate) in a total amount ranging from 6.0 to 10.0% in weight.
    As such, all the data expressed in% by weight relate to the total amount of percarbonates (sodium and / or potassium percarbonate) and perborates (sodium perborate and / or potassium perborate) used in the agent, which are related to the total weight of the agent.
    In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that, relative to its total weight, (a) it contains one or more percarbonates from the group comprising per sodium carbonate and potassium percarbonate, in a total amount ranging from 1.5 to 13.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.5 to 11% by weight and very particularly preferably from 6.0 to 10.0% by weight.
    In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that, relative to its total weight, (a) it contains from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 13.0% by weight, more preferably from 3.0 to 12.0% by weight, even more preferably from 4.5 to 11.0% by weight and most preferably particularly preferred from 6.0 to 10.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate.
    The agents according to the invention contain, as the second constituent (b) essential to the invention, one or more persulphates from the group comprising ammonium persulphate, potassium persulphate and persulphate sodium in a total amount ranging from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight.
    Ammonium persulfate is also called ammonium peroxodisulfate and is represented by the total formula (NH4) 2S2O8. Ammonium persulfate has CAS number 7727-54-0.
    Potassium persulfate is also called potassium peroxodisulfate and is represented by the total formula K2S2O8. Potassium persulfate has CAS number 7727-21-1.
    Sodium persulfate is also called sodium peroxodisulfate and is represented by the total formula Na2S2O8. Sodium persulfate has CAS number 7775-27-1.
    Persulfates are also preferably used in quantities determined in the agent according to the invention in order both to optimize the lightening power and to minimize the damage caused to the hair.
    In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, relative to its total weight, (b) one or more persulfates from the group comprising persulfate d ammonium, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate, in a total amount ranging from 10.0 to 55.0% by weight, preferably from 15.0 to 50.0% by weight, more preferably from 20 , 0 to 48.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 30.0 to 45.0% by weight.
    It has also been found to be advantageous for the agents to contain at least two persulfates from the group comprising ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate. Very particularly preferably, the agents according to the invention contain the three persulfates: ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate.
    In a particularly preferred manner, the agent according to the invention contains from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 18.0% by weight, more preferably from 7.0 to 16.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 9.0 to 14.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate.
    In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, relative to its total weight, (b) from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight , preferably from 5.0 to 18.0% by weight, more preferably from 7.0 to 16.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 9.0 to 14.0% by weight of persulfate d 'ammonium.
    In a particularly preferred manner, the agent according to the invention contains from 15.0 to 50.0% by weight, preferably from 18.0 to 47.0% by weight, more preferably from 20.0 to 45.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 27.0 to 42.0% by weight of potassium persulfate.
    In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, relative to its total weight, (b) from 15.0 to 50.0% by weight , preferably from 18.0 to 47.0% by weight, more preferably from 20.0 to 45.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 27.0 to 42.0% by weight of potassium.
    In a particularly preferred manner, the agent according to the invention contains from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.5 to 4.0% by weight of sodium persulfate.
    In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, relative to its total weight, (b) from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight , preferably from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.5 to 4.0% by weight of persulfate sodium.
    We particularly prefer a color change agent by oxidation of keratin fibers, containing - relative to its total weight - (a) from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and (bl) from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate and [b] of 15.0 to 50.0% by weight of potassium persulfate and [0056] ( b3) from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight of sodium persulfate and (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water.
    Particular preference is given to a color change agent by oxidation of keratin fibers, containing - relative to its total weight - (a) from 1.5 to 13.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and (b 1) from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate and [b] from 15.0 to 50.0% by weight of potassium persulfate and [0062] (b3) from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight of sodium persulfate and (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water.
    We particularly prefer a color change agent by oxidation of keratin fibers, containing - relative to its total weight - (a) from 3.0% to 12.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate , and [b] from 5.0 to 18.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate and [b] from 18.0 to 47.0% by weight of potassium persulfate and [b] ] (b3) from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight of sodium persulfate and [0069] (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water.
    A color-changing agent by oxidation of keratin fibers is particularly preferred, containing - relative to its total weight - (a) from 4.5 to 11.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and (bl) from 7.0 to 16.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate and [b] from 20.0 to 45.0% by weight of potassium persulfate and [0074] ( b3) from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight of sodium persulfate and (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water.
    Particular preference will be given to a color-changing agent by oxidation of keratin fibers, containing - relative to its total weight - (a) from 6.0 to 10.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and (bl) from 9.0 to 14.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate and [b] from 24.0 to 42.0% by weight of potassium persulfate and [0080] ( b3) from 1.5 to 4.0% by weight of sodium persulfate and (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water.
    Agent water content The agents according to the invention are in the form of a single component which suffices to mix with water to prepare the agent ready for use. . In this way, it is possible to dispense with the mixture with a second preparation packaged separately, resulting in savings on the material / associated packaging costs. When mixed with water, hydrogen peroxide (or "active oxygen") is released in situ from percarbonates (or perborates). Since contact with water converts the agent to its ready-to-use form, the agent itself is substantially anhydrous and therefore contains less than 10.0% by weight of water (c). For example, 100 g of an agent according to the invention contains a maximum of 9.9% by weight (= 9.9 g) of water.
    Various raw materials can contain small amounts of water, for example when the raw materials are used in the form of an emulsion, contain water of crystallization or water present as a minor component. When using these raw materials, small amounts of water can thus be introduced into the agent according to the invention. However, it is particularly advantageous to keep the water content as low as possible.
    Particularly preferred is a color change agent by oxidation of keratin fibers containing - relative to its total weight - (c) less than 5.0% by weight of water, more preferably less than 2.5% by weight of water, even more preferably less than 1.0% by weight of water and very particularly preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water.
    In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, (c) less than 5.0% by weight, so preferred less than 2.5% by weight, more preferably less than 1.0% by weight and very particularly preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water.
    Presenting the agent in the form of a powder or a paste makes it possible to propose a form of the product containing little water / anhydrous which is very easy to use and practical for the user. Consequently, very particularly preferably, the agent is in the form of a powder (such as a blonde coloring powder) or in the form of a paste (such as a blonde coloring paste ).
    In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a powder or in the form of a paste.
    In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a blonde coloring powder or in the form of a blonde coloring paste.
    In a very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a blonde coloring powder.
    In other words, in a particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are a blonde coloring powder or a blonde coloring paste containing - respectively based on the total weight of the powder or the paste - (a) one or more percarbonates from the group comprising sodium percarbonate and potassium percarbonate, in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, and [b] ) one or more persulphates chosen from the group comprising ammonium persulphate, potassium persulphate and sodium persulphate in a total amount ranging from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and [c] less 10.0% by weight of water.
    In other words, in a very particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are a blonde coloring powder containing - respectively based on the total weight of the powder - (a) one or several percarbonates from the group comprising sodium percarbonate and potassium percarbonate, in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, and [b] one or more persulfates chosen from the group comprising ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount ranging from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water .
    In other words, in a very particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are a blonde coloring powder containing - respectively relative to the total weight of the powder - [0101] (a) of 0 , 5 to 14.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate, and [0102] (b) one or more persulfates chosen from the group comprising ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount ranging from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and [0103] (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “powder” or “pulverulent” are understood to mean agents consisting of ground solid components, the grinding being able to be carried out by spraying, grinding, molding or drying by atomization or by lyophilization. Thus, it is a powder consisting of a mixture of small solid particles. The powders can be made up of solid components having different particle sizes. In general, however, it may be preferable for the powder to have the most homogeneous particle size, in particular to facilitate uniform dispersion or dissolution of the powder in water. Within the meaning of the present invention, a preferred powder has an average particle diameter of at least 20 μm and a BET specific surface of 40 to 400 m 2 / g.
    The term "paste" or "in the form of a paste" should be understood according to the invention as a dosage form which, at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar, has a viscosity in the range of 200,000 to 1,600,000 mPa. s, preferably from 250,000 to 1,400,000 mPa.s, particularly preferably from 300,000 to 1,000,000 mPa.s, most preferably from 400,000 to 750,000 mPa.s. The viscosity of the dough is preferably determined using a Brookfield; RVDV II + device; Spindle n ° 96, 4 turns per minute, at 20 ° C. Unless otherwise indicated, all temperatures are measured at a pressure of 1013 mbar. Quantities
    As described above, the agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain components (a) and (b) respectively in ranges of determined quantities. Component (c) (water) is present in the agent at the most in the maximum quantity indicated. As such, the quantity indications add up to represent a maximum of 100% by weight.
    The minimum quantities of the components of groups (a) contained in the agent amount to 0.5% by weight, the minimum quantities of the components of group (b) contained in the agent amount to 5, 0% by weight. In this case, the agent still contains a large proportion of other ingredients. For example, the agents according to the invention may also contain - depending on the importance of the content of (a) and (b) retained - fillers, surfactants, fats, oils, nutrients, etc. ., in different quantity ranges. The additional optional components are described in the following paragraphs.
    Alkalizing agent [0107] The agent according to the invention is preferably composed so that the ready-to-use agent, obtained by mixing with water, has an alkaline pH. Preferably, the ready-to-use agent has a pH of 8 to 11.5, particularly preferably a pH of 8.5 to 11, most preferably a pH of 9.0 to 10 , 5, measured in each case at 20 ° C.
    Percarbonates, in particular sodium percarbonate, dissolve in water to form a liquid with a basic pH value. Depending on the total amount of percarbonates used in the agent, the alkaline pH in the ready-to-use agent can therefore already be adjusted by percarbonates alone.
    In particular, if the percarbonates are used in smaller quantities or if the ready-to-use agent must have a particularly alkaline pH, it may also be advantageous to incorporate an additional alkalizing agent in the agent. Since the agents are preferably packaged in the form of a powder or a paste, the particularly suitable alkalinizing agents are solid at room temperature (20 ° C).
    The alkalinizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising metasilicates of alkali metals (-terrous), metasilicates of alkaline metals (-terrous), hydroxides of alkali metals (-terrous) , alkaline metal phosphates (-terrous), alkaline metal hydrogen phosphates (-terrous) and basic amino acids. Preferably, the alkali metal ions are lithium, sodium and / or potassium. Preferably, the alkaline earth metal ions are magnesium and / or calcium.
    Particularly suitable basic amino acids are arginine, histidine and lysine and / or their salts. Among the arginine, lysine and histidine salts which are particularly suitable according to the invention, mention will be made of ammonium salts, alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts, in particular lithium salts. , sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as hydrohalides, in particular hydrochlorides, and mixtures of these salts. Lysine hydrochloride is a particularly preferred amino acid salt according to the invention. The amino acids suitable according to the invention, chosen from arginine, lysine, histidine and their salts, can also contain water of crystallization.
    In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more alkalizing agents chosen from the group comprising alkali metal silicates (-terrous), metasilicates of alkali (-terrous) metals, alkali (-terrous) metal hydroxides, alkali (-terrous) metal phosphates and alkaline (-terrous) hydrogen phosphates, alkali (-terrous) carbonates and amino acids basic.
    The person skilled in the art chooses the quantities used of the alkalinizing agent (s) according to the pH value to be obtained in the ready-to-use agent.
    Thus, the agent can contain, based on its total weight, one or more alkalinizing agents chosen from the group comprising alkali metal (-terreous) silicates, alkali metal (-terreous) metasilicates, alkali (-terrous) metal hydroxides, alkaline (-terrous) metal phosphates and alkaline (-terrous) metal hydrogen phosphates and basic amino acids in a total amount ranging from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, preferably from 10.0 to 55.0% by weight, more preferably from 15.0 to 50.0% by weight, and most preferably from 20.0 to 45.0% by weight.
    [0115] Other Components [0116] The agents according to the invention may also contain other components. Thus, the agents - in particular if they must be packaged in the form of a paste, also contain at least one oil. The preferred oils can be chosen from paraffin oil, silicone oil or ester oil, as well as from mixtures of these oils.
    Other preferred oils according to the invention are chosen from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from paraffin oils, C18-C30 isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosan, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, further selected from C8-C16 isoparaffins, in particular from isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane and isohexadecane as well as mixtures thereof, as well as 1,3-di- (2- ethylhexyl) cyclohexane.
    Other preferred oils according to the invention are chosen from benzoic acid esters of C8 to 22 linear or branched alkanols. The C2 to 05 alkyl esters of benzoic acid are particularly preferred.
    Other preferred oils according to the invention are chosen from fatty alcohols having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated. Preferred alcohol oils are 2-hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
    Other preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from triglycerides (= triple glycerol esters) of linear or branched C8-30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated. The use of natural oils, for example amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, l cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elder seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, flax oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, walnut oil from Brazil, pecan oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn berry pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil , sesame seed oil, soybean oil, oil e of sunflower, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, rosehip oil, wheat germ oil, and liquid parts of coconut oil and their equivalents may be particularly preferred. However, synthetic triglyceride oils, particularly capric / caprylic triglycerides, are also preferred.
    Other particularly preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from esters of dicarboxylic acids of C 2 -C 10 alkanols, linear or branched, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n- adipate butyl, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl sebacate / di-n-butyl / dioctyl, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, maleate dicaprylyl, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
    Other particularly preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated. These preferably include 2-hexyl-decyl stearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2- stearate ethylhexyl, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isearon stearate isocetyl, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetaryl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, butyloc-tanoic acid 2-butyl octanoate , diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and ethylene glycol dioleate.
    Other preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from additives of 1 to 5 units of propylene oxide on mono- or polyvalent C8-22 alkanols such as octanol, decanol , decane diol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, for example myristyl ether PPG-2 and myristyl ether PPG-3. Other preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from products containing the addition of at least 6 units of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to mono- or polyvalent C3-22 alkanols such as that glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which can be esterified if necessary, e.g. butyl ether PPG-14, butyl ether PPG-9, butanediol PPG-10, stearyl ether PPG-15 and Glycereth-7 diisononanoate.
    Other preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or multi-rival C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular esters of glycolic acid, d lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and sabcylic acid, for example C1-C15 alkyl lactate.
    Other preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C 3-22 alkanols, C3.22 alkanediols or C3.22 alkanetriols, for example example dicaprylyl carbonate, or esters according to patent DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.
    Other suitable cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from silicone oils among which there are for example dialkyl- and alkylarylsiloxanes such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also l ' hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.
    According to the invention, it may be extremely preferable to use mixtures of the abovementioned oils.
    In addition, the agents according to the invention may contain one or more thickeners.
    The preferred thickening agents are chosen from copolymers of C2-C4 alkene and styrene, the saturated linear 1-alkanols having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the esters of branched or unbranched saturated alkanecarboxylic acids having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols having 16 to 50 carbon atoms, esters having a melting point between 50 ° C and 110 ° C, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated Ci2_30 fatty acids , triglycerides having a melting point between 50 ° C and 110 ° C, as well as mixtures of the above-mentioned substances.
    The C2-C4 alkene and styrene copolymers preferred according to the invention are chosen from ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymers, butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymers, butylene / propylene / styrene copolymers as well as the blends of these copolymers.
    Preferably, said copolymers of C2-C4 alkene and of styrene are not copolymers in which the monomer units are distributed in a statistical manner, but block copolymers, in a particularly preferred manner sequenced copolymers and triblock copolymers . These block copolymers have "hard" segments made of polystyrene and "soft" segments made of ethylene / propylene or ethylene / butylene or propylene / butylene. The individual blocks can in this case comprise 10 to 10,000, preferably 50 to 5,000 and in particular 100 to 500 monomers. The preferred block copolymers are styrene-ethylenepropylene (S-EP) and styrene-ethylenebutylene (S-EB); the preferred triblock copolymers are styrene-ethylenepropylene-styrene (S-EP-S) and styrene-ethylenebutylene-styrene (S-EB-S). According to the invention, use will be made, in a particularly preferred manner, of mixtures of di- and triblock copolymers, the mixtures of styrene-ethylenepropylene (S-EP) and of styrene-ethylene-propylene-styrene (S-EP-S) are revealing to be particularly preferred. Very particularly preferably in this respect, the proportion of sequenced copolymers is from 10 to 90% by weight and the proportion of triblock copolymers is from 90 to 10% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the polymer blend.
    Triglycerides within the meaning of the present invention are glycerol triesters, that is to say esters in which all the OH groups of glycerol are esterified with an acid, in the present case with a C12 fatty acid -30 saturated and possibly hydroxylated.
    The triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated Ci2_30 fatty acids, preferred according to the invention, having a melting point between 50 ° C and 110 ° C which thicken the oily phase, are chosen from hardened triglyceride fats , in particular hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenine) and glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, as well as their mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred is hydrogenated castor oil, which can be obtained for example in the form of the commercial product Cutina ^ HR.
    The agents particularly preferred according to the invention may also comprise at least one or more hydrophilic thickeners preferably chosen from polysaccharides which can be chemically and / or physically modified, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of itaconic acid, and mixtures of these polymers.
    Homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of itaconic acid suitable according to the invention as hydrophilic thickeners are preferably chosen from the group formed by crosslinked and non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their alkyl salts and esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides and / or methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylic acid amides as well as their mixtures, copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl esters ethoxylated of methacrylic acid and of sulfonated acrylic acid amides as well as their salts and copolymers crosslinked methacrylic acid, acrylic acid amide and sulfonated acrylic acid amide, as well as their salts.
    The above polymers and copolymers can be crosslinked or noncrosslinked.
    If the abovementioned polymers and copolymers do not contain an alkyl group having a chain length of at least 8 carbon atoms, they are preferably crosslinked. If the abovementioned polymers and copolymers have alkyl groups having a chain length of at least 8 carbon atoms, they are preferably non-crosslinked.
    Examples of polymers which are preferred hydrophilic thickeners, for example, the copolymer known under the name INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (trade name: Aristoflex HMB; Clariant), may be mentioned known under the name INCI Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer as well as the crosslinked co-polymer known under the name INCI Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11 (trade name: Aristoflex Velvet; Clariant).
    In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more anionic polymers from the group of (co) polymers of methacrylic acid and from the group of (co ) polymers of acrylic acid, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.6 to 2, 0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.75 to 1.5% by weight.
    The compounds from the group of polysaccharides are particularly suitable as hydrophilic thickeners. As examples, we can cite representatives of celluloses (cellulose itself and its derivatives), alginic acids (as well as their corresponding physiologically compatible salts, alginates), agar-agar (with the polysaccharide d agarose present in agar-agar as the main component), starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, carob seed flour, gum arabic, dextrans, guar gum and xanthan gum.
    The suitable cellulose derivatives are methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyal-kylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those bearing the name INCI Cellulose Gum) as well as their physiologically compatible salts. .
    Preferably, the anionic polysaccharides, such as carboxymethylcelluloses, alginic acids or xanthan gum, are chosen from the group of polysaccharides for thickening the agents according to the invention. In the context of the present invention, carboxymethylcelluloses, alginic acids and xanthan gum (as well as their physiologically compatible salts) are designated as anionic polysaccharides because, in water or in formulas containing water, the carboxylic acid groups present in these polysaccharides necessarily dissociate to a greater or lesser extent, thus forming anionic carboxylate groups, the number of which increases further with the increase in the pH value. In preferred embodiments, the invention contains, as a hydrophilic thickener, carboxymethylcellulose (preferably carboxymethylcellulose with the designation INCI Cellulose Gum), for the purpose of reliable viscosity adjustment and application without residue on keratin fibers and scalp. In a preferred embodiment, the carboxymethylcellulose can be present as a single hydrophilic thickener. However, particular preference will also be given to a combination of carboxymethylcellulose and xanthan (preferably xanthan bearing the name INCI Xanthan Gum) or their physiologically compatible salts. By physiologically compatible salts is meant in particular the sodium salts, but also the potassium salts, as well as the magnesium and calcium salts.
    In another very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - one or more anionic polysaccharides from the group comprising carboxymethylcellulose, xanthan gum ( Xanthan Gum), alginate (Algin) and their physiologically compatible salts in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight.
    In addition, the agents according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants.
    The anionic surfactants suitable in the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by an anionic group, made soluble in water, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, ether glycol or polglycol groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. As examples of suitable anionic surfactants, mention may be made of linear and branched fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), alkyl ethercarboxylic acids, acylsarcosides, acyltaurides, acylisethionates, mono- and dialkyl esters of d sulfosuccinic acids and the mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester of sulfosuccinic acid, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ethersulfates as well as alkyl and / or alkenyl phosphates. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethersulfates and alkyl ethercarboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms respectively, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups , preferably from 2 to 6 glycol ether groups in the molecule. As examples of surfactants of this type, mention may be made of the compounds bearing the names INCI Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.
    By zwitterionic surfactants is meant the surfactant compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the compounds known as betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl-dimé-thylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate , for example coco-acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline having respectively 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well as coco-acylammoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the name INCI Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a preferred zwitterionic surfactant.
    By amphoteric surfactants is meant the surfactant compounds which, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain in the molecule at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and are capable to form internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants that may be mentioned include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hy-droxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines , N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids having respectively 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl-laminopropionate and C12-C18 acylsarcosine.
    The nonionic surfactants contain, for example, as a hydrophilic group, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol ether and polyglycol groups. These compounds are for example adducts of 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide on linear and branched fatty alcohols, on fatty acids and on alkylphenols , having respectively 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides such as, for example. glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxides and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxides, sorbitan fatty acid esters and ethylene oxide adducts on fatty acid esters of sorbitan such as polysorbates (Tween 20, Tween 21, Tween 60, Tween 61, Tween 81), adducts of ethylene oxide on fatty acid ancanolamides and fatty amines, as well as alkylpolyglycosides. Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants are the C8-C22 alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs as well as the adducts of ethylene oxides on linear saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with respectively 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol.
    Other oxidation compositions preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethersulfates and alkyl ethercarboxylic acids having respectively 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups, contained in the molecule.
    Suitable cationic surfactants are, in principle, all materials with a cationic surfactant suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by at least one cationic group made soluble in water, such as e.g. a quaternary ammonium group, or characterized by at least one ca-tionizable group made soluble in water, such as for example, an amine group, and in addition at least one alkyl group (with lipophilic action) having 6 to 30 atoms carbon or at least one imidazole group (with lipophilic action) or at least one imidazylalkyl group (with lipophilic action).
    The preferred agents according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant which is preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical, the esterquats and the amidoamines having respectively at least one radical C8-C24 acyl, as well as among their mixtures. The preferred quaternary ammonium compounds comprising at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides, and ammonium alkyl sulphates, such as methosulphates or ethosulphates, such as chlorides of C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium, C8-C24 dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammomum chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as imidazolium compounds known under the names INCI Quatemium-Quatemium 83, Quatemium-87 and Quaternium-91. The alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
    Esterquats are cationic surfactants which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element, as well as at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical or one acyl radical in C8-C24. Preferred esterquats are quaternized fatty acid ester salts with triethanolamine, quaternized fatty acid ester salts with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized fatty acid ester salts with 1,2 -dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are sold, for example, under the registered trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®. N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulfate and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate are preferred examples of these esterquats.
    [0150] Alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids and fatty acid sections with di- (C1-C3 alkyl) aminoamines. A compound of this group of substances which is particularly suitable according to the invention is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
    If not only a brightening or coloring in pure blonde is desired, but also and simultaneously a shade of keratin fibers, the agents according to the invention can also also contain at least one dye with direct action . These are dyes which have a direct action on the hair and which do not require an oxidation process to form the color.
    In order to obtain the matting of the undesirable perceptible residual colors caused by the decomposition products of melanin, in particular in the reddish or bluish range, certain specific direct dyes for complementary colors are present in a particularly preferred manner. The direct-acting dyes are generally nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Direct acting dyes are known as anionic, cationic and nonionic direct acting dyes. The direct-acting dyes are preferably used respectively in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the blonde coloring paste or of the alkalizing composition (Alk).
    The preferred anionic direct action dyes are the components known under international names or trademarks: Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue. Preferred cationic direct action dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems which are substituted by a quaternary nitrogen group, such as for example Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B), as well as direct-acting dyes containing a heterocycle comprising at least one atom of quaternary nitrogen, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. The cationic direct action dyes marketed under the registered trademark Arianor are also cationic direct action dyes preferred according to the invention. Suitable nonionic direct acting dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred non-ionic direct acting dyes are the compounds known by international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro- 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1- amino- 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, l- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, acid 2- [(4- amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol. According to the invention, a combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92 is very particularly preferred.
    The agents according to the invention may contain, as another optional ingredient, at least one dye precursor by oxidation, which is preferably chosen from one or more developer components and optionally one or more coupler components.
    According to the invention, it may be preferred to choose as developer component at least one compound from the group comprising p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol -l-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propane-2-ol, bis- ( 2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propane-2-ol, N, N '-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane , 1,10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-l- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimid ine and their physiologically compatible salts.
    The agents according to the invention can contain at least one developer component in a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the agent. The agents according to the invention preferably contain one or more developer components in a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.5% by weight and in a particularly preferred manner 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight.
    During oxidation dyeing, the coupler components alone do not form significant coloration, but always require the presence of developer components. Consequently, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one coupler component is used in addition to the use of at least one developer component.
    The preferred coupler components according to the invention are chosen from 3-aminophenol, 5-ammo-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2.6-dimethyl-3-ammophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylammo-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-ammo-4 -methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammo-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, Nc y clopentyl-3-aminophenol, l, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1- methoxy-2-ammo-4- (2-hydroxyethylammo) benzene, 1.3- bis- (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2.6- bis- (2 '-hydroxyethylamino) -1 -methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) ammo] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} ammo) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) ammo] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} ammo), and hanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) ammo] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} ammo) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholm-4-yl-phenyl) -amino] -ethanol, 3 - amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1- ammo-3-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, monomethyl ether of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridme, 2-amino-5-chloro -3-hydroxypyridme, 3-ammo-2-methylammo-6-methoxypyridme, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2.6-diaminopyridine, 2, 3-diammo-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridme, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridme, 3.4- diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) ammo-3 -ammo-6-methoxypyridme, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) ammo-3-aminopyridme, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-l-naphthol , 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7- dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline, 4,6-diammopyrimidme, 4-amino -2,6-diliydroxypyrimidme, 2,4-diammo-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2.4.6- trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-ammo-4-methylpyrimidme, 2-ammo-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidme and 4, 6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidme or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically compatible salts.
    The agents according to the invention can contain at least one coupler component in a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the agent. The agents according to the invention preferably contain one or more coupler components in a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.5% by weight and in a particularly preferred manner 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight.
    A second object of the present invention is a method for the color change by oxidation of the hair comprising the following steps in the order indicated [0162] (I) Preparation of an agent ready for use by mixing an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, with water, [0163] (II) Application of the ready-to-use agent prepared in step (I ) on the hair, [0164] (III) Reaction and [0165] (IV) Rinsing of the hair, in order to get rid of the agent.
    Particularly preferred is a method for lightening or coloring blonde hair comprising the following steps in the order indicated [0167] (I) Preparation of a ready-to-use agent by mixing an agent such as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, with water, [0168] (II) Application of the ready-to-use agent prepared in step (I) to the hair, [0169 ] (III) Reaction and [0170] (IV) Rinsing of the hair, in order to rid it of the agent.
    In the context of a particularly suitable embodiment, the agent according to the first object of the invention can for example be supplied in a polygonal container, a bottle or a circular box. As such, the dimensions of the polygonal container can be chosen so that it is only partially filled and to allow subsequent filling with water. The amount of water to be added to produce the ready-to-use agent can, for example, be specified by marking on the wall of the polygonal container. The mixture to be applied is prepared by adding the appropriate amount of water and, for example, shaking the polygonal container.
    In another embodiment, the agent according to the invention can also be supplied in a sachet, a pouch, a circular box or another storage container. To prepare the ready-to-use agent, the user then completely transfers the sachet (or similar) to a bowl, glass or container, then adds the recommended amount of water by shaking or shaking.
    The mixing ratio of the agent according to the invention and water can for example be 1: 3 (1 portion by weight of the agent according to the invention for 3 portions by weight of water) to 3: 1, preferably from 1: 2 to 2: 1.
    The ready-to-use mixtures of the agent and water preferably have a viscosity in the range from 3,000 to 40,000 mPa.s, preferably from 4,000 to 30,000 mPa.s, particularly preferably from 6,000 to 15,000 mPa.s, measured in each case at 20 ° C. with a cylinder viscometer / Haake cylinder, an SV I rotation / measurement system with a cooling time of 5 minutes. During this measurement process, the viscosity value is determined at a shear rate of 1 / 7.2 s. The measurement program operates with a 0-1 / 60 s ramp. A viscosity in this range makes it possible on the one hand to correctly apply the ready-to-use agent and on the other hand to have a flow behavior so as to guarantee a sufficient action time of the agent long at the site of action on keratin fibers.
    Preferably, the reaction time in step (III) of the process according to the invention ranges from 5 to 60 minutes, in particular from 5 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably from 10 to 45 minutes. During the action of the agents on the fiber, it can be advantageous to strengthen the color change process by adding heat. A reaction phase at room temperature is also in accordance with the invention. In particular, the temperature during the duration of action is between 20 ° C and 40 ° C, in particular between 25 ° C and 38 ° C. The agents give good treatment results from physiologically compatible temperatures, below 45 ° C.
    After the end of the color change process, all of the components on the keratin fibers are rinsed with water or a cleaning agent containing a surfactant. In particular, a shampoo marketed to the general public can be used as a cleaning agent, in particular making it possible to dispense with a cleaning agent, and the rinsing can be carried out with running water when the agent color change has a higher surfactant content.
    What has been explained about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis to the methods according to the invention.
    Examples [0179] 1, Lormules [0180] The following formulas were prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are expressed in% by weight).
    [Tables 1]
    [0181] I = according to T invention [0182] T = control [0183] 2, Application [0184] Each blonde coloring powder was mixed with water in a ratio of 1: 2 (1 portion by weight of blonde coloring powder with 2 portions by weight of water). The ready-to-use blonde coloring agent thus obtained was applied to each lock of hair (Lischbach & Miller, light brown) and left to act for 45 minutes. The locks of hair were then washed with a consumer shampoo and water.
    Each lock of hair was measured by colorimetry before and after coloring in blonde (spectrophotometer from the company Datcolor, SL450). The color difference (dE value) was determined from the L, a, and b values obtained during the measurements.
    3. Blonde coloring effect obtained
    [Tableaux2]
    The value L indicates the clarity of the color (L = 0 / black; L = 100 / white). The higher the L value of the treated wick, the more the wick has received an intense blonde coloring.
    The value ΔΕ used to evaluate the intensity of the color results from the following colorimetric values L * a * b *: [0189] ΔΕ = [(L; - L0) 2 + (a; - a0) 2 + (b; - b0)] 1/2 [0190] Lo, a0 and b0: Colorimetric values before coloring in blonde [0191] L ;, a; and B; : Colorimetric values after coloring in blonde [0192] The value ΔΕ indicates the difference in color which exists between the strands of untreated hair and those treated. The higher the value of E, the greater the difference in color (i.e. the color difference) between the non-colored and colored skin and the more intense the blond coloring effect.
    4. Measurement of the Cysteic Acid Content [0194] To measure the damage caused to the hair by the blonde coloring, the cysteic acid index of each strand of hair treated was determined by quantitative NIR spectroscopy.
    The spectra were recorded with an MPA ™ FT-NIR spectrometer from the company Bruker Optik GmbH. The infrared range includes the wave number range from 12,500 cm1 to 4,000 cm 1 and is characteristic of harmonic and combined oscillations of the CH, OH and NH groups, for example.
    The measurement of the samples was carried out with the module of integration beads on six different positions of the samples in diffuse reflection. For the analysis of the measured NIR spectra, the range of wave numbers chosen was 7,300 cm 1 to 4,020 cm1.
    The NIR spectra of cystine show characteristic absorption bands in the wave number range from 6,200 cm 1 to 5,500 cm1. If the hair changes due to more damage (i.e. the cysteic acid content in the hair increases), this will have an effect on the NIR spectrum on the characteristic bands of cysteic acid between 5020 cm1 and 4,020 cm1.
    The quantitative evaluation of the NIR spectrum was computer assisted.
    [0198] NIR analysis value [mol of cysteic acid / 100 mol of amino acid] [Tables3]
    The locks of hair treated with the agents according to the invention (I) exhibited a reduced cysteic acid index and therefore caused less damage to the hair compared to the control formula (T).
    权利要求:
    Claims (1)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    Claims [Claim 1] Agent for color change by oxidation of keratin fibers, containing - relative to its total weight - (a) one or more "per" compounds selected from the group comprising sodium percarbonate, potassium percarbonate, sodium perborate and potassium perborate in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, and (b) one or more persulfates selected from the group comprising ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate in a total amount ranging from 5.0 to 60.0% by weight, and (c) less than 10.0% by weight of water. [Claim 2] Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - (a) from 0.5 to 14.0% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 13.0% by weight, more preferably from 3.0 to 12.0% by weight, still more preferably from 4.5 to 11.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 6.0 to 10.0% by weight of sodium percarbonate. [Claim 3] Agent according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - (b) one or more persulfates from the group comprising ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and sodium persulfate, in a total amount ranging from 10.0 to 55.0% by weight, preferably from 15.0 to 50.0% by weight, more preferably from 20.0 to 48.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 30.0 to 45.0% by weight. [Claim 4] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - (b) from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 5, 0 to 18.0% by weight, more preferably 7.0 to 16.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 9.0 to 14.0% by weight of ammonium persulfate. [Claim 5] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - (b) from 15.0 to 50.0% by weight, preferably 18.0 to 47.0% by weight, more preferably from 20.0 to 45.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 27.0 to 42.0% by weight of potassium persulfate. [Claim 6] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - (b) from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 4.0% by weight of sodium persulfate. [Claim 7] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - (c) less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.5% by by weight, more preferably less than 1.0% by weight and very particularly preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water. [Claim 8] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is in the form of a powder or in the form of a paste, particularly preferably in the form of a powder. [Claim 9] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains one or more alkalinizing agents from the group comprising alkali metal silicates (-terrous), alkali metal metasilicates (- earthy), alkali (-basic) metal hydroxides, alkaline (-basic) metal phosphates and alkaline (-basic) metal hydrogen phosphates, alkaline (-basic) metal carbonates and basic amino acids. [Claim 10] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - one or more anionic polymers from the group of (co) polymers of methacrylic acid and ( co) polymers of acrylic acid, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.6 to 2, 0% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0.75 to 1.5% by weight. [Claim 11] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains - relative to its total weight - one or more anionic polysaccharides from the group comprising carboxymethylcellulose, xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum), alginate (Algin), hyaluronic acid and their physiologically compatible salts in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferred from 0.7 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight. [Claim 12] A method of color change by hair oxidation, comprising the following steps in the order indicated (I) Preparation of a ready-to-use agent, by mixing an agent as described in the claims 1 to 11 with water, (II) Application to the hair of the ready-to-use agent prepared in step (I), (III) Reaction and (IV) Rinsing of the hair, in order to rid it of the agent.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    GB2570396A|2019-07-24|
    GB2570396B|2021-06-23|
    GB201819941D0|2019-01-23|
    US10702461B2|2020-07-07|
    US20190175463A1|2019-06-13|
    DE102017222125A1|2019-06-13|
    FR3076454B1|2021-05-07|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    EP0681465A4|1993-01-28|1996-08-21|Ccp Inc|Powder bleaching compositions for hair and method of use thereof.|
    FR2703588B1|1993-04-05|1995-06-23|Oreal|GRANULATED COMPOSITION BASED ON PEROXIDE DERIVATIVES USEFUL FOR THE DISCOLORATION OF HAIR AND PROCESS FOR PREPARING THE SAME.|
    DE19756454C1|1997-12-18|1999-06-17|Henkel Kgaa|Surface-active compositions, especially cosmetics, containing glycerol carbonate as emulsifier|
    DE102008061133A1|2008-12-11|2010-06-17|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Increased lightening with simultaneous hair strengthening|
    US9565915B2|2011-11-09|2017-02-14|L'oreal|Compositions and methods for altering the appearance of hair|
    JP6407158B2|2013-10-07|2018-10-17|ホーユー株式会社|Powder hair dye composition|
    DE102015209739A1|2015-05-27|2016-12-01|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Hair bleaching agent with red or red-blonde base hair color|
    DE102016212430A1|2016-07-07|2018-01-11|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Bleaching agent and process for gentle oxidative lightening of keratinic fibers|
    DE102016215198A1|2016-08-16|2018-02-22|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Agent for improved oxidative lightening of keratin-containing fibers|
    DE102016219868A1|2016-10-12|2018-04-12|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Double chamber pouch for the bleaching of human hair|GB2581579A|2018-12-28|2020-08-26|Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa|Thickening system in a percarbonate-containing blonding agent|
    DE102019105162A1|2018-12-28|2020-07-02|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Thickening system in a bleaching agent containing percarbonate|
    DE102020209592A1|2020-07-30|2022-02-03|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Two-component oxidation powder hair color with sodium percarbonate|
    法律状态:
    2019-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2020-10-09| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20201009 |
    2020-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2021-11-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    DE102017222125.9|2017-12-07|
    DE102017222125.9A|DE102017222125A1|2017-12-07|2017-12-07|Bleaching agent with percarbonates or perborates and persulfates|
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